Kibiso

December 17th, 2008 @ 11:00am

Kibiso silk

聞き慣れないこの響き………今とても気になっている。

山形県の鶴岡市は、繭からプリント生地まで地域内で全ての行程が揃う日本で唯一のシルク産地だ。

今まで棄てられていた、蚕が繭を作る際に最初にはき出す糸「きびそ」を「kibiso」として商標登録。オリジナルの鶴岡シルクとして経済産業省・中小企業庁の「地域産業資源活用事業計画」にも認定され、国あげての新しい絹糸に力を注いでいるらしい。

それがなぜ気になるのか………それは2009A/Wのコレクションで、「kibiso」を取り入れた新たなテキスタイルを〈matohu〉が発表するからだ。太くて節のある糸が作り出す独特の質感が、どんな表情へと様変わりするのか今から楽しみである。

日本の伝統とデザイナーが出会い新たな技術が生まれて、観る人を魅了する。自然豊かな山形から生まれた新たな糸は紡績会社に夢を託し、新たなテキスタイルとなってこれから世界に広がっていくことだろう。

I can’t get the word “kibiso” out of my head. The sound “kibiso” has this strange ring to it.

Turns out that the city of Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture is the Japan’s only silk production center where they handle on site the full range of production, from cocoon to printing. Tsuruoka’s industry recently registered the trademark for “kibiso” (in roman letters), which is an old term for the first silk the silkworm produces. They used to throw this silk away, but now are trying to find new uses for it. Kibiso has even been recognized in METI’s “Plan to Revitalize Regional Industry Resources” as an original Tsuruoka silk. The government is apparently pouring a lot of effort into selling kibiso as a brand new Japanese silk thread.

We now hear that the brand matohu is going to use kibiso in a new kind of textile within their upcoming 2009-2010 A/W collection. I am excited to see what kind of emotion they can bring to it, since it’s normally a very knotty, thick thread with a unique texture.

There is something always inspiring about this intersection between Japanese tradition and contemporary fashion designers. Hopefully kibiso will spread from the Yamagata countryside to the rest of the globe.

by Junko Kai | Posted in Textiles

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Comments

  1. SundayAugust 2, 2009
    12:31am
    posted by JOHANNES RANDRIANARIVONY

    KAOPERATIVA FIRAISANKINA (Solidarity Cooperative ) Madagascar,
    The weavers live in a small rural community in Madagascar called Soatanana. Their village has about 500 people and lacks running water and electricity. Most people in the area subsistence farmers and have no reliable income. In 2003, the co-op was formed to provide steady long term income for the weavers and their families as well as to revive the beautiful historical silk art form. there are over 100 weavers in the co-op who have successfully sells their fabrics through local Malagasy boutiques as well exports to the United States and Australia. Since the Co-op was formed, the weavers’ overall household income has increased by 70 °/°

    By Johannes Randrianarivony (biologist of the insects)